Three-Dimensional Hydrodynamics Associated with a Solitary Wave Traveling over an Alongshore Variable Shallow Shelf
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 145, Issue 6
Abstract
We investigated, from two laboratory experiments, the kinematic behavior and the three-dimensional turbulence that is generated due to a breaking solitary wave propagating over irregular shallow water bathymetry. The bathymetry was composed of a deep water region followed by a shallow shelf via a relatively steep slope. The offshore boundary of the shelf break varied in the longshore direction. The shelf had a triangular shape in plan view, with the widest part of the shelf located along the center of the basin. The first experiment used a planar shelf, while an obstacle in the shape of a conical island was placed near the shelf apex for the second experiment. Measurements of fluid velocities and free surface elevations were collected using three-dimensional acoustic Doppler velocimeters (ADVs) and wave gauges, respectively. In the first experiment, the inundating flow varied weakly in the alongshore direction, but demonstrated strong variations in the second experiment. A refraction-generated jetting mechanism caused by the convergence of water mass near the basin centerline characterized the run-up. The greatest cross-shore velocities were located near the basin's centerline and were triggered by the jetting mechanism. The greatest turbulent events were well correlated with four identified bore fronts. The bore fronts were generated by a combination of waves including the leading wave, beach reflections, and shelf oscillations. A primary conclusion of this study is that nonlinear long-wave transformation over irregular bathymetry can lead to a highly complex nearshore wave field with little apparent correlation to the offshore wave.
Get full access to this article
View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.
References
Gedik, N., E. Irtem, and S. Kabdasli. 2005. “Laboratory investigation on tsunami run-up.” Ocean Eng. 32 (5–6): 513–528. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2004.10.013.
Grilli, S. T., R. Subramanya, J. T. Kirby, and G. Wei. 1994a. “Comparison of modified Boussinesq and fully nonlinear potential models for shoaling solitary waves.” In Proceedings of the international symposium on waves: physical and numerical modeling, edited by R. Isaacson and R. Quick, 524–533. Vancouver: University of British Columbia.
Grilli, S. T., R. Subramanya, I. A. Svendsen, and J. Veeramony. 1994b. “Shoaling of solitary waves on plane beaches.” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng. 120 (6): 609–628. https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1994)120:6(609).
Higuera, P., J. L. Lara, and I. J. Losada. 2013. “Simulating coastal engineering processes with OpenFOAM.” Coastal Eng. 71: 119–134. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.06.002.
Hsiao, S. C., T. W. Hsu, T. C. Lin, and Y. H. Chang. 2008. “On the evolution and run-up of breaking solitary waves on a mild sloping beach.” Coastal Eng. 55 (12): 975–988. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.03.002.
Lin, C., and H. H. Hwung. 1992. “External and internal flow fields of plunging breakers.” Exp. Fluids 12–12 (4–5): 229–237. https://doi.org/10.1007/BF00187300.
Liu, P. L.-F., and K. Al-Banaa. 2004. “Solitary wave runup and force on a vertical barrier.” J. Fluid Mech. 505: 225–233. https://doi.org/10.1017/S0022112004008547.
Liu, P. L.-F., Y. Cho, M. J. Briggs, U. Kanoglu, and C. E. Synolakis. 1995. “Runup of solitary waves on a circular Island.” J. Fluid Mech. 302: 259–285. https://doi.org/10.1017/S0022112095004095.
Liu, P. L.-F., C. E. Synolakis, and H. H. Yeh. 1991. “Report on the international workshop on long-wave run-up.” J. Fluid Mech. 229 (1): 675–688. https://doi.org/10.1017/S0022112091003221.
Lynett, P., and P. L.-F. Liu. 2004. “A two-layer approach to wave modeling.” Proc. R. Soc. London Ser. A 460 (2049): 2637–2669. https://doi.org/10.1098/rspa.2004.1305.
Lynett, P. J., et al. 2017. “Inter-model analysis of tsunami-induced coastal currents.” Ocean Model. 114: 14–32. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2017.04.003.
Lynett, P. J., D. Swigler, S. Son, D. Bryant, and S. Socolofsky. 2011. “Experimental study of solitary wave evolution over a 3D shallow shelf.” Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng. 1 (32): 1. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.currents.1.
Madsen, P. A., D. R. Fuhrman, and H. A. Schäffer. 2008. “On the solitary wave paradigm for tsunamis.” J. Geophys. Res. 113 (C12). https://doi.org/10.1029/2008JC004932.
Monaghan, J. J., and A. Kos. 1999. “Solitary waves on a Cretan beach.” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng. 125 (3): 145–155. https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1999)125:3(145).
Synolakis, C. E. 1987. “The runup of solitary waves.” J. Fluid Mech. 185: 523–545. https://doi.org/10.1017/S002211208700329X.
Ting, F. C. K. 2006. “Large-scale turbulence under a solitary wave.” Coastal Eng. 53 (5–6): 441–462. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2005.11.004.
Ting, F. C. K., and J. T. Kirby. 1994. “Observation of undertow and turbulence in a laboratory surf zone.” Coastal Eng. 24 (1–2): 51–80. https://doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(94)90026-4.
Ting, F. C. K., and J. T. Kirby. 1995. “Dynamics of surf-zone turbulence in a strong plunging breaker.” Coastal Eng. 24 (3–4): 177–204. https://doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(94)00036-W.
Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Copyright
© 2019 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Received: May 21, 2018
Accepted: Feb 11, 2019
Published online: Sep 11, 2019
Published in print: Nov 1, 2019
Discussion open until: Feb 11, 2020
Authors
Metrics & Citations
Metrics
Citations
Download citation
If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.