Research Article
May 1982

Measurement of Velocities in Solitary Waves

Publication: Journal of the Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Division
Volume 108, Issue 2

Abstract

The water surface profiles and corresponding water particle velocities of several solitary waves have been obtained. The measurements of the horizontal and vertical velocity components are conducted using a two-dimensional laser-Doppler velocimeter (LDV). Results are presented for three different wave height-to-depth ratios: ϵ = 0.11, 0.19 and 0.29. The experimental results are compared with existing theories which follow different orders of approximation, and the theories are found to agree well with the experiments. It has been convincingly demonstrated that the LDV measurement technique offers an unmatched advantage to determine the water particle velocities under water waves, especially in the region above the still water level.

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Published In

Journal of the Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Division
Volume 108Issue 2May 1982
Pages: 200 - 218

History

Published in print: May 1982
Published online: Feb 12, 2021

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Jiin-Jen Lee, M.ASCE
Visiting Assoc. in Civ. Engrg., W. M. Keck Lab. of Hydr. & Water Resources, California Inst. of Tech., Pasadena, Calif. 91125
James E. Skjelbreia, AM.ASCE
Grad. Research Asst., W. M. Keck Lab. of Hydr. & Water Resources, California Inst. of Tech., Pasadena, Calif. 91125
Fredric Raichlen, M.ASCE
Prof. of Civ. Engrg., W. M. Keck Lab. of Hydr. & Water Resources, California Inst. of Tech., Pasadena, Calif. 91125

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