Chapter
Jul 11, 2017
Coastal Structures and Solutions to Coastal Disasters Joint Conference 2015

Extreme Wave Runup in a Coastal Zone: Experimental and Numerical Modelling

Publication: Coastal Structures and Solutions to Coastal Disasters 2015: Resilient Coastal Communities

ABSTRACT

We present a series of complementary physical experiments and numerical model simulations based on a coupled Boussinesq-nonlinear shallow water equation scheme to investigate extreme wave runup on a plane beach. Extreme incident waves are modelled as focused wave groups using the NewWave design wave, and the maximum runup elevations generated by these focused waves are compared to the extreme runup elevations recorded during related irregular wave runup simulations. The maximum runup of a focused wave group exhibits strong dependence on the linear amplitude, focus location and phase at focus of the focused wave group. The extreme values of irregular wave runup in a random sea compare well to the runup values from equivalent incident focused wave groups with amplitudes set with Rayleigh statistics and optimised focus position and phase.

Get full access to this article

View all available purchase options and get full access to this chapter.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

This work was conducted within the ENFORCE (Extreme Responses using NewWave: Forces, Overtopping and Runup in Coastal Engineering) project, under EPSRC Grant EP/K024108/1. The assistance of Peter Arber and Alastair Reynolds with the physical experiments is greatly appreciated.

REFERENCES

Boccotti, P. Some new results on statistical properties of wind waves. Appl. Ocean Res., 5(3): 134-140, 1983.
Fitzgerald, C. J., Taylor, P. H., Orszaghova, J., Borthwick, A. G., Whittaker, C. N., and Raby, A. C. Irregular wave runup statistics on plane beaches: application of a Boussinesq-type model incorporating a generating-absorbing sponge layer and second order wave generation. Submitted to Coastal Engineering, July 2015.
Hunt-Raby, A. C., Borthwick, A. G., Stansby, P. K., and Taylor, P. H. Experimental measurement of focused wave group and solitary wave overtopping. Journal of Hydraulic Research, 49(4):450–464, 2011.
Lindgren, G. Some properties of a normal process near a local maximum. The Annals of Mathematical Statistics, 41:1870-1883, 1970.
Madsen, P. A. and Sørensen, O. R. A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics. Part 2. A slowly-varying bathymetry. Coastal Engineering 18:183-204, 1992.
Orszaghova, J., Borthwick, A. G. L., and Taylor, P. H. From the paddle to the beach - a Boussinesq shallow water numerical wave tank based on Madsen and Sørensen’s equations. J. Comput. Phys., 231(2):328–344, 2012.
Orszaghova J., Taylor, P. H., Borthwick, A. G., and Raby, A. C. Importance of second-order wave generation for focused wave group run-up and overtopping. Coastal Engineering, 94:63-79, 2014.
Schäffer, H. A. Second-order wavemaker theory for irregular waves. Ocean Engineering, 23:47-88. 1996.
Taylor, P. H., and Williams, B. A. Wave statistics for intermediate depth water –NewWaves and symmetry. Journal of offshore mechanics and Arctic engineering, 126:54-59, 2004.
Tromans, P. S., Anaturk, A. R., and Hagemeijer, P. A new model for the kinematics of large ocean waves – application as a design wave. Proceedings of the First International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference, 64-71, 1991
Walker, D., Taylor, P. H., and Eatock Taylor, R. The shape of large surface waves on the open sea and the Draupner New Year Wave. Applied Ocean Research, 26:73-83, 2004.
Zhang, Y., Kennedy, A. B., Panda, N., Dawson, C., Westerink, J. J. Generating-absorbing sponge layers for phase-resolving wave models. Coastal Engineering 84(0):1-9, 2014.

Information & Authors

Information

Published In

Go to Coastal Structures and Solutions to Coastal Disasters 2015
Coastal Structures and Solutions to Coastal Disasters 2015: Resilient Coastal Communities
Pages: 754 - 762
Editors: Louise Wallendorf, U.S. Naval Academy and Daniel T. Cox, Ph.D., Oregon State University
ISBN (Online): 978-0-7844-8030-4

History

Published online: Jul 11, 2017
Published in print: Jul 11, 2017

Permissions

Request permissions for this article.

Authors

Affiliations

C. N. Whittaker [email protected]
School of Marine Science and Engineering, Plymouth Univ., Drake Circus, Plymouth PL4 8AA, U.K. E-mail: [email protected]
C. J. Fitzgerald [email protected]
Dept. of Engineering Science, Univ. of Oxford, Parks Rd., Oxford OX1 3PJ, U.K. E-mail: [email protected]
P. H. Taylor [email protected]
Dept. of Engineering Science, Univ. of Oxford, Parks Rd., Oxford OX1 3PJ, U.K. E-mail: [email protected]
School of Marine Science and Engineering, Plymouth Univ., Drake Circus, Plymouth PL4 8AA, U.K. E-mail: [email protected]

Metrics & Citations

Metrics

Citations

Download citation

If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.

View Options

Get Access

Access content

Please select your options to get access

Log in/Register Log in via your institution (Shibboleth)
ASCE Members: Please log in to see member pricing

Purchase

Save for later Information on ASCE Library Cards
ASCE Library Cards let you download journal articles, proceedings papers, and available book chapters across the entire ASCE Library platform. ASCE Library Cards remain active for 24 months or until all downloads are used. Note: This content will be debited as one download at time of checkout.

Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
ASCE Library Card (5 downloads)
$105.00
Add to cart
ASCE Library Card (20 downloads)
$280.00
Add to cart
Buy Single Paper
$35.00
Add to cart
Buy E-book
$190.00
Add to cart

Get Access

Access content

Please select your options to get access

Log in/Register Log in via your institution (Shibboleth)
ASCE Members: Please log in to see member pricing

Purchase

Save for later Information on ASCE Library Cards
ASCE Library Cards let you download journal articles, proceedings papers, and available book chapters across the entire ASCE Library platform. ASCE Library Cards remain active for 24 months or until all downloads are used. Note: This content will be debited as one download at time of checkout.

Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
ASCE Library Card (5 downloads)
$105.00
Add to cart
ASCE Library Card (20 downloads)
$280.00
Add to cart
Buy Single Paper
$35.00
Add to cart
Buy E-book
$190.00
Add to cart

Media

Figures

Other

Tables

Share

Share

Copy the content Link

Share with email

Email a colleague

Share