TECHNICAL PAPERS
Dec 15, 2009

Validation of Two Wave and Nearshore Current Models

Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 136, Issue 1

Abstract

This paper deals with three coastal applications of a 1D model system to represent the nearshore currents. In these applications, comparisons are made with the predictions from 2D and 3D models and field data. The system evaluated is the ISSM (the Interface for SWAN and Surf Models), which was developed as an attempt to develop a simple and reliable coastal circulation model. The nearshore circulation model SHORECIRC was considered as a reference. It is a quasi-3D model that uses REFDIF as wave driver, and combines a numerical solution for the depth-integrated 2D horizontal momentum balance equations with an analytical solution for the 3D current profiles. Three case studies were considered for comparing the models. The first is a plane beach treated as a 1D problem. The other two applications are 2D problems. The first application had mild bottom contours, while the second was characterized by strong bathymetric irregularities. Comparisons are performed between the results of the two models and with the in situ measurements. It was found that, when the angle between the direction of the wave advance and the normal to the shoreline was less than 15°, the 1D surf models can be used with confidence in coastal applications. For larger angles and more complex bathymetric conditions, 2D and 3D models are required.

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Acknowledgments

The work presented is a contribution to the project: NEARPORT (Development of a real-time nearshore wave prediction system for the Portuguese ports) supported by Grant No. UNSPECIFIEDPTDC/ECM/64373/2006 from the Portuguese Foundation for Science and Technology. The first writer was financed by Portuguese Foundation for Science and Technology, through the Center for Marine Technology and Engineering. The writers are indebted to Zeki Demirbilek for his contribution in reviewing the paper and suggesting improvements in its English style.UNSPECIFIED

References

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Go to Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 136Issue 1January 2010
Pages: 27 - 45

History

Received: May 23, 2008
Accepted: Apr 20, 2009
Published online: Dec 15, 2009
Published in print: Jan 2010

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Authors

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Eugen Rusu
Senior Researcher, Centre for Marine Technology and Engineering (CENTEC), Technical Univ. of Lisbon, Instituto Superior Técnico, Av. Rovisco Pais, 1049-001 Lisboa, Portugal; on leave from Dept. of Applied Mechanics, Univ. “Dunarea de Jos” of Galati, Romania. E-mail: [email protected]
C. Guedes Soares, M.ASCE [email protected]
Professor, Centre for Marine Technology and Engineering (CENTEC), Technical Univ. of Lisbon, Instituto Superior Técnico, Av. Rovisco Pais, 1049-001 Lisboa, Portugal (corresponding author). E-mail: [email protected]

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