Wave-Breaking Model for Boussinesq-Type Equations Including Roller Effects in the Mass Conservation Equation
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 136, Issue 1
Abstract
We investigate the ability of a 1D fully nonlinear Boussinesq model including breaking to reproduce surf zone waves in terms of wave height and nonlinear intraphase properties such as asymmetry and skewness. An alternative approach for wave-breaking parameterization including roller effects through diffusive-type terms on both, the mass conservation and momentum equations is developed and validated on regular wave and solitary wave experiments as an attempt to improve wave height and left-right asymmetry estimates. The new approach is able to reproduce wave height decay, and intraphase nonlinear properties within the entire surf zone of spilling breakers without requiring temporal evolution of model parameters.
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Acknowledgments
This work has been supported by FONDECYT Research Grant No. UNSPECIFIED11060312 and was also performed within the framework of the IDAO/PATOM program (Interactions et Dynamique de l’Atmosphère et de l’Océan) sponsored by the CNRS/INSU. This work was accomplished during a sabbatical leave of Professor Eric Barthélemy at the Departamento de Ingeniería Hidráulica y Ambiental, Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile (PUC). Financial support from the School of Engineering (PUC), the Institut National Polytechnique de Grenoble, the French Ministry of Education, and ECOS-Conicyt Research Grant No. UNSPECIFIEDC07U01 is gratefully acknowledged.
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Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 136 • Issue 1 • January 2010
Pages: 10 - 26
Copyright
© 2010 ASCE.
History
Received: Jul 24, 2008
Accepted: Mar 10, 2009
Published online: Dec 15, 2009
Published in print: Jan 2010
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