Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering

A parameterized solution to the monochromatic irrotational nonlinear wave over a horizontal bottom is developed. The solution is expressed in terms of a converging truncated Fourier series. The coefficients, wave number and number of terms required are all given directly in terms of wave height, water depth and wave period. The mathematical formulation is validated both theoretically and experimentally.

A two‐dimensional (in a vertical plane), nonlinear model is used to analyze tide‐induced mean currents in shallow estuaries forced with tides of significant amplitude. The model is first verified by comparing its results with known analytical solutions of Lagrangian currents in a uniform and homogeneous estuary. The Lagrangian velocity fields are derived from the computed mean Eulerian and Stokes velocities in the estuary. A set of model experiments is performed to investigate the influences of tidal forcing, density gradients, and topographic variations on the mean circulation in tidal channels. It is shown that the tide‐induced transport opposes density‐induced transport in tidal rivers. Model sensitivity analysis indicates that for mean estuarine circulation studies, it is essential to include the coupled effects of density and tides active in the domain of interest.

The one step or two steps ahead predictions of beach process variables along the sandy beach normal to the shoreline are made by using the autoregressive model with kalman filter theory. The factors to construct the above model are sea depth to express beach profiles, velocity and direction of littoral current, wave direction, and wave steepness measured on the Outer Banks of North Carolina. In a result the predictions of beach profiles, velocity of littoral current, and wave direction by the model are in good agreement with the observed data.

An analysis of wave‐induced currents is presented in a rubble‐mound breakwater. Particular regard is given to the modeling of flow channels and computing by method of characteristics. The computed results show that vertical currents in the rubble‐mound breakwater are generated and the currents play an important role on wave damping.