Spectral Model for Wave Transformation and Breaking over Irregular Bathymetry
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 124, Issue 4
Abstract
A numerical model is presented that predicts the evolution of a directional spectral sea state over a varying bathymetry using superposition of results of a parabolic monochromatic wave model run for each initial frequency-direction component. The model predicts dissipation due to wave breaking using a statistical breaking model and has been tested with existing data for unidirectional random waves breaking over a plane beach. Experiments were also conducted for a series of random directional waves breaking over a circular shoal to test the model in a two-dimensional wave field. The model performs well in both cases, although directional effects are not included in the breaking dissipation formulation.
Get full access to this article
View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.
References
1.
Berkhoff, J. C. W. (1972). “Computation of combined refraction diffraction.”Proc., 13th Int. Conf. on Coast. Engrg., Vancouver, Canada, 471–490.
2.
Booij, N. (1981). “Gravity waves on water with non-uniform depth and current.” Communication on Hydraulics; Rep. No. 81-1, Department of Civil Engineering, Delft University of Technology, Delft, The Netherlands.
3.
Borgman, L. E. (1984). “Directional spectrum estimation for the Sxy gages.”Tech. Rep., Coastal Engineering Research Center, Vicksburg, Miss.
4.
Bouws, E., Gunther, H., Rosenthal, W., and Vincent, C.(1985). “Similarity of the wind wave spectrum in finite depth water.”J. Geophys. Res., 90, 975–986.
5.
Chawla, A. (1995). “Wave transformation over a submerged shoal,” MS thesis, University of Delaware, Newark, Del.
6.
Goda, Y. (1985). Random seas and design of maritime structures. Univ. of Tokyo Press, Tokyo, Japan.
7.
Grassa, J. M. (1990). “Directional random waves propagation on beaches.”Proc., 22nd Int. Conf. on Coastal Engrg., Delft, The Netherlands, 798–811.
8.
Isobe, M.(1987). “A parabolic model for transformation of irregular waves due to refraction, diffraction and breaking.”Coast. Engrg. in Japan, Tokyo, Japan, 30, 33–47.
9.
Izumiya, T., and Horikawa, K.(1987). “On the transformation of directional waves under combined refraction and diffraction.”Coast. Engrg. in Japan, Tokyo, Japan, 30, 49–65.
10.
Kirby, J. T.(1984). “A note on linear surface wave-current interaction over slowly varying topography.”J. Geophys. Res., 89, 745–747.
11.
Kirby, J. T.(1986a). “Higher-order approximations in the parabolic equation for water waves.”J. Geophys. Res., 91, 933–952.
12.
Kirby, J. T.(1986b). “Rational approximations in the parabolic equation method for water waves.”Coast. Engrg., 10, 355–378.
13.
Kirby, J. T., and Dalrymple, R. A.(1983). “A parabolic equation for combined refraction diffraction of Stokes waves by mildly varying topography.”J. Fluid Mech., Cambridge, U.K., 136, 453–466.
14.
Kirby, J. T., and Dalrymple, R. A.(1984). “A verification of a parabolic equation for propagation of weakly nonlinear waves.”Coast. Engrg., 8, 219–221.
15.
Kirby, J. T., and Kaihatu, J. M. (1996). “Structure of frequency domain models for random wave breaking.”Proc., 25th Int. Conf. on Coastal Engrg., Orlando, 1144–1155.
16.
Lie, V., and Tørum, A.(1991). “Ocean waves over shoals.”Coast. Engrg., 15, 545–562.
17.
Mase, H., and Kirby, J. T. (1992). “Modified frequency-domain KdV equation for random wave shoaling.”Proc., 23rd Int. Conf. on Coastal Engrg., Venice, 474–487.
18.
O'Reilly, W. C., and Guza, R. T.(1991). “Comparison of spectral refraction and refraction-diffraction wave models.”J. Wtrwy., Port, Coast., and Oc. Engrg., ASCE, 117(3), 199–215.
19.
Özkan, H. T. (1993). “Evolution of breaking directional spectral waves in the nearshore zone,” MS thesis, University of Delaware, Newark, Del.
20.
Özkan, H. T., and Kirby, J. T. (1993). “Evolution of breaking directional spectral waves in the nearshore zone.”Proc., 2nd Int. Symp. on Wave Measurement and Analysis, New Orleans, 849–863.
21.
Panchang, V. G., Wei, G., Pearce, B. R., and Briggs, M. J.(1990). “Numerical simulation of irregular wave propagation over shoal.”J. Wtrwy. Port, Coast., and Oc. Engrg., ASCE, 116(3), 324–340.
22.
Radder, A. C.(1979). “On the parabolic equation method for water wave propagation.”J. Fluid Mech., Cambridge, U.K., 95, 159–176.
23.
Thornton, E. B., and Guza, R. T.(1983). “Transformations of wave height distribution.”J. Geophys. Res., 88, 5925–5938.
24.
Vincent, C. L., and Briggs, M. J.(1989). “Refraction-diffraction of irregular waves over a mound.”J. Wtrwy. Port, Coast., and Oc. Engrg., ASCE, 115(2), 269–284.
Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Copyright
Copyright © 1998 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published online: Jul 1, 1998
Published in print: Jul 1998
Authors
Metrics & Citations
Metrics
Citations
Download citation
If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.