Wave Transformation during Extratropical Storm
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 123, Issue 5
Abstract
Wave observations made during an October 1990 storm on the North Carolina coast are used to investigate the evolution of wind waves as they propagate from about 48 m to 8.5 m of water. The observations include height, period, and direction as well as frequency and directional spectra. The wave measurements are separated by 90 km with simple bathymetry. During the active wind-sea growth (winds of 25 m/s), spatial and temporal changes in the wave field indicate that a quasi-steady-state assumption is no longer valid. Later, the wave field becomes a mixture of two wave systems: swell out of the northeast and a wind-sea system from the northwest. It is concluded that even for a relatively simple storm, evaluation of the physical mechanisms and prediction require a time-dependent numerical model.
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Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 123 • Issue 5 • September 1997
Pages: 252 - 260
Copyright
Copyright © 1997 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published online: Sep 1, 1997
Published in print: Sep 1997
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