Observations of Wave Transformation near Breaking
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 123, Issue 5
Abstract
Analysis of the change in the spectrum of wind waves over a 5-km reach just prior to the surf zone during a major extratropical storm indicates that significant shifts in the spectral distribution of wave energy occur. For both onshore and offshore winds, the midrange of the spectrum loses up to 40% of the energy content, while the lowand high-frequency ranges have an energy gain. In the onshore case, gain in the high-frequency range dominates, and in the offshore wind case (predominant wave energy propagation is still shoreward), gain in the low-frequency region dominates.
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Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 123 • Issue 5 • September 1997
Pages: 249 - 251
Copyright
Copyright © 1997 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published online: Sep 1, 1997
Published in print: Sep 1997
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