Improving Input Wave Data for Use with Shoreline Change Models
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 122, Issue 5
Abstract
Shoreline change models such as GENESIS use refracted wave data identified at nearshore water depths that are seaward of the breaking limit for the largest waves in the model's ensemble. Adjustment of the manner in which wave data are input to the model can potentially improve the physical reality of the model's predictions. This paper presents a method whereby incipient breaking wave conditions are computed for each refracted wave case and then transformed offshore to a given reference water depth for subsequent input to the shoreline change model. This allows for consideration of wave transformations that occur between the reference water depth and the point of incipient breaking. This adjustment is shown to be of particular importance in those cases where the nearshore bathymetry is irregular.
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References
1.
Hanson, H. (1987). “GENESIS, a generalized shoreline change model for engineering use.”Rep. No. 1007, Dept. of Water Resour. Engrg., Univ. of Lund, Lund, Sweden.
2.
Hanson, H., and Kraus, N. C. (1989). “GENESIS: Generalized model for simulating shoreline change.”TR-CERC-89-19, U.S. Army Engr. Wtrwys. Experimental Station, Vicksburg, Miss.
3.
“Palm Beach County, Florida shore protection project: General design memorandum for Ocean Ridge segment.” (1995). Rep. Prepared for U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Jacksonville, Fla.
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Copyright © 1996 American Society of Civil Engineers.
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Published online: Sep 1, 1996
Published in print: Sep 1996
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