Characteristics of Mechanically‐Generated Waves
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 113, Issue 1
Abstract
The structure of a mechanically‐generated sinusoidal, water‐wave train of fixed frequency is examined under the influence of wind. The characteristics of this wave train were obtained with the aid of capacitance‐type wave height gauges in a wind‐wave research facility at Stanford University. Experimental results are given for seven wind speeds in the range 140–400 cm/s and 1 Hz, 2.54 cm (nominal) amplitude, mechanically‐generated waves. The amplitude and phase of the various wave components were deduced by a simple method using their traveling wave property and their characteristic dependence upon the streamwise position in the channel. The dispersion relation and component phase speeds were also examined. It was found that: (1) The amplitude of the forced and free‐traveling second harmonics compares favorably with existing theories; and (2) the nonlinearities of the primary wave, the interaction between short gravity waves and the primary wave, and the advection effects of wind drift are mainly responsible for the deviation of the measured phase speeds from the linear theory. The latter results are consistent with the field measurements reported by other researchers, indicating that the apparent phase speeds at high frequencies are independent of the frequency. The measured phase speeds were also found to increase with wind speed, at a given frequency, in accord with previous laboratory measurements and theoretical computations.
Get full access to this article
View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.
References
1.
Banner, H. L., and Phillips, O. M., “On the Incipient Breaking of Small‐Scale Waves,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 65, 1974, pp. 647–656.
2.
Bole, J. B., and Hsu, E. Y., “Response of Gravity Water Waves to Wind Excitation,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 35, 1969, pp. 657–675.
3.
Caulliez, G., and Ramamonjiarisoa, A., “Interfacial Motion Observed During Experiments on Air‐Water Gas Transfer,” Gas Transfer at Water Surfaces, W. Brutsaert and G. H. Jirka, Eds., Reidel Press, 1984, pp. 171–180.
4.
Chang, P. G., Plate, E. J., and Hidy, G. H., “Turbulent Air Flow over the Dominant Component of Wind‐Generated Waves,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 47, 1971, pp. 183–208.
5.
Colonell, J. M., “Laboratory Simulation of Sea Waves,” Civil Engineering Department, Technical Report No. 65, Stanford University, 1966.
6.
Craik, A. D. D., “The Drift Velocity of Water Waves,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 116, 1982, pp. 187–205.
7.
Crawford, D. R., et al., “Effects of Nonlinearity and Spectral Bandwidth on the Dispersion Relation and Component Phase Speeds of Surface Gravity Waves,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 112, 1981, pp. 1–32.
8.
Dore, S. D., “On Mass Transport Velocity due to Progressive Waves,” Quarterly Journal of Mechanics and Applied Mathematics, Vol. 30, 1977, pp. 157–173.
9.
Dudis, J., “Interpretation of Phase Velocity Measurements of Wind‐Generated Surface Waves,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 113, 1981, pp. 241–249.
10.
Flick, R. E., and Guza, R. T., “Paddle‐Generated Waves in Laboratory Channels,” Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, ASCE, Vol. 106, No. WW1, 1980, pp. 79–97.
11.
Flügge, S., Handbuch der Physik, Vol. 9, Springer‐Verlag, Berlin, W. Germany, 1960.
12.
Fontanet, P., “Theorie da la Géneration de la Houle Cylindrique par un Batteur Plan,” Houille Blanche, Vol. 16, No. 1, 1961, pp. 3–31.
13.
Garrett, C. J. R., “On Cross Waves,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 41, 1970, pp. 837–849.
14.
Goda, Y., and Suzuki, Y., “Estimation of Incident and Reflected Waves in Random Wave Experiments,” Proceedings 15th Coastal Engineering Conference, ASCE, 1976, pp. 828–843.
15.
Grimshaw, R., “Mean Flows Generated by a Progressing Water Wave Packet,” Journal of Australian Mathematical Society, Series (B), Vol. 22, 1981, pp. 318–317.
16.
Hansen, J. B., and Svendsen, I. A., “Laboratory Generation of Waves of Constant Form,” Proceedings 14th Coastal Engineering Conference, Vol. 1, 1974, pp. 321–338.
17.
Harrison, W. J., “The Influence of Viscosity on the Oscillations of Superposed Fluids,” Proceedings of the London Mathematics Society, Vol. 6, 1908, pp. 396–405.
18.
Harrison, W. J., “The Influence of Viscosity and Capillarity on Waves of Finite Amplitude,” Proceedings of the London Mathematics Society, Vol. 7, 1909, pp. 107–121.
19.
Howe, B. W., et al., “Comparison of Profiles and Fluxes of Heat and Momentum Above and Below an Air‐Water Interface,” Journal of Heat Transfer, Vol. 104, 1982, pp. 34–39.
20.
Hsu, E. Y., “A Wind, Water‐Wave Research Facility,” Civil Engineering Department Technical Report, No. 57, Stanford University, 1965.
21.
Hsu, C. T., Hsu, E. Y., Street, R. L., “On the Structure of Turbulent Flow over a Progressive Water Wave: Theory and Experiments in a Transformed Wave‐Following Coordinate System. Part 1,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 105, 1981, pp. 87–117.
22.
Hsu, C. T., et al., “Momentum and Energy Transfer in Wind Generation of Waves,” Journal of Physical Oceanography, Vol. 12, No. 9, 1982, pp. 929–951.
23.
Hunt, J. N., “Viscous Damping of Waves over an Inclined Bed in a Channel of Finite Width,” Houille Blanche, Vol. 7, 1952, pp. 836–842.
24.
Hussain, A. K. M. F., and Reynolds, W. C., “The Mechanics of a Perturbation Wave in a Turbulent Shear Flow,” Mechanical Engineering Department, Technical Report No. FM‐6, Stanford University, 1970.
25.
Komen, G. J., “Spatial Correlations in Wind‐Generated Water Waves,” Journal of Geophysical Research, Vol. 85, No. C6, 1980, pp. 3311–3314.
26.
Lake, B. M., and Yuen, H. C., “A New Model for Nonlinear Waves. Part 1. Physical Model and Experimental Evidence,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 88, 1978, pp. 33–62.
27.
Lamb, H., Hydrodynamics, Cambridge University Press, 1932.
28.
Lin, J.‐T., and Gad‐El‐Hak, M., “Turbulent Current Measurements in a Wind‐Wave Tank,” Journal of Geophysical Research, Vol. 89, No. C1, 1984, pp. 627–636.
29.
Madsen, O. S., “On the Generation of Long Waves,” Journal of Geophysical Research, No. C6, Vol. 76, 1971, pp. 8672–8683.
30.
Mei, C. C., and Liu, L. F., “The Damping of Surface Gravity Waves in a Banded Liquid,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 59, 1973, pp. 239–256.
31.
Mei, C. C., and Ünlüata, Ü., “Harmonic Generation in Shallow Water Waves,” Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport, R. E. Meyer, Ed., Academic Press, 1972, pp. 181–202.
32.
Miche, “Le Pouvoir Reflechissant des Ouvrages Maritimes exposés a l'Action de la Houle,” Annales des Ponts et Chaussées, année 121, No. 3, 1951, pp. 285–319.
33.
Miles, J. W., “On the Generation of Surface Waves by Shear Flows,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 3, 1957, pp. 185–204.
34.
Milsuyasu, H., Kuo, Y. Y., and Masuda, A., “On the Dispersion Relation of Random Gravity Waves. Part 2: An Experiment,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 92, 1979, pp. 731–749.
35.
Mitsuyasu, H., and Honda, T., “Wind‐Induced Growth of Water Waves,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 123, 1982, pp. 425–442.
36.
Monin, A. M., and Yaglom, A. M., Statistical Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 1, MIT Press, 1971.
37.
Morden, D. B., Richey, E. P., and Christensen, D. R., “Decomposition of Co‐existing Random Wave Energy,” Proc. 15th Coastal Engrg. Conf., ASCE, 1976, pp. 846–864.
38.
Papadimitrakis, Y. A., “Velocity and Pressure Measurements in the Turbulent Boundary Layer above Mechanically‐Generated Water Waves,” Dissertation presented to Stanford University, at Stanford, Calif., in 1982 in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy.
39.
Papadimitrakis, Y. A., Hsu, E. Y., and Street, R. L., “Measurements of the Fluctuating Pressure in the Turbulent Boundary Layer over Progressive Mechanically‐Generated Water Waves,” W. Brutsaert and G. H. Jirka, Eds., Gas Transfer of Water Surfaces, Reidel Press, Inc., 1984.
40.
Papadimitrakis, Y. A., Hsu, E. Y., and Street, R. L., “On the Structure of the Velocity Field over Progressive Mechanically‐Generated Water Waves,” Journal of Physical Oceanography, Vol. 14, No. 12, 1984, pp. 1937–1948.
41.
Papadimitrakis, Y. A., Hsu, E. Y., and Street, R. L., “The Role of Wave‐Induced Pressure Fluctuation in the Transfer Processes Across an Air‐Water Interface,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 170, 1986, pp. 113–137.
42.
Phillips, O. M., The Dynamics of the Upper Ocean, Cambridge University Press, London, England, 1977.
43.
Phillips, O. M., “The Dispersion of Short Wavelets in the Presence of a Dominant Wave,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 107, 1981, pp. 465–485.
44.
Phillips, O. M., “Wave Interactions—The Evolution of an Idea,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 106, 1981, pp. 215–227.
45.
Phillips, O. M., and Banner, M. L., “Wave Breaking in the Presence of Wind Drift and Swell,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 66, 1974, pp. 625–640.
46.
Plant, W. J., “A Relationship between Wind Stress and Wave Slope,” Journal of Geophysical Research, Vol. 87, 1982, pp. 1961–1967.
47.
Plant, W. J., and Wright, J. W., “Phase Speeds of Upwind and Downwind Traversing Short Gravity Waves,” Journal of Geophysical Research, Vol. 85, No. C6, 1980, pp. 3304–3310.
48.
Ramamonjiarisoa, A., “Contribution a l'Etude de la Structure Statistique et des Mécanismes de Generation des Vagues de Vent,” Institute de Mécanique Statistique de la Turbulence, Laboratoire Associé au C.N.R.S., Rep. No. A.O. 10023, 1974, Marseille.
49.
Ramamonjiarisoa, A., and Giovanangeli, J. P., “Observations de la Vitesse de Propagation des Vagues engendrées par le Vent au Large,” Centre de Research Academic Science, B287, Paris, 1978, pp. 133–136.
50.
Shemdin, O. H., “Wind‐Generated Currents and Phase Speed of Wind Waves,” Journal of Physical Oceanography, Vol. 2, 1972, pp. 411–419.
51.
Shemdin, O. L., “Momentum Transfer at the Air‐Water Interface,” Transport Processes in Lakes and Oceans, R. J. Gibbs, Ed., Plenum Press, New York, N.Y., 1977.
52.
Shemdin, O. L., and Lai, R. J., “Investigation of the Velocity Field over Waves Using a Wave Follower,” Coastal and Ocean Engineering Laboratory, Technical Report No. 18, University of Florida, 1973.
53.
Snyder, R. L., et al., “Array Measurements of Atmospheric Pressure Fluctuations above Surface Gravity Waves,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 102, 1981, pp. 1–59.
54.
Stegen, G. R., and Atta, C. W. V., “A Technique for Phase Speed Measurements in Turbulent Flow,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 42, 1970, pp. 689–699.
55.
Stokes, G. G., “On the Theory of Oscillatory Waves,” Transactions of Cambridge Philosophical Society, Vol. 8, 1847, pp. 441–445.
56.
Takeuchi, K., and Mogel, T., “A Performance Evaluation of a Mini‐Computer,” Review of Scientific Instruments, Vol. 46, 1975, pp. 686–691.
57.
Wright, J. M., and Keller, W. C., “Doppler Spectra in Microwave Scattering from Wind Waves,” Physics of Fluids, Vol. 14, 1971, pp. 466–474.
58.
Wu, J. “Wind‐Induced Drift Current,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 68, 1975, pp. 49–70.
59.
Young, I. R., and Sobey, R. J., “Measurements of the Wind Wave Energy Flux in an Opposing Wind,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 151, 1985, pp. 427–442.
Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 113 • Issue 1 • January 1987
Pages: 39 - 59
Copyright
Copyright © 1987 ASCE.
History
Published online: Jan 1, 1987
Published in print: Jan 1987
Authors
Metrics & Citations
Metrics
Citations
Download citation
If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.