Nonlinear Wave Transformation Over a Submerged Permeable Breakwater

A set of nonlinear vertically integrated equations has been derived to predict the transformation of waves over a submerged permeable breakwater on a one-dimensional topography. The square of the relative water depth is assumed to be of the same order as the wave height to water depth ratio and a set of second-order governing equations which are equivalent to the Boussinesq equations is derived. The equations have been applied to simulate non-breaking and breaking wave transformations obtained from laboratory experiments, in the latter incorporating a model for breaking wave energy dissipation. When breaking is nonexistent on the breakwater, the wave height as well as the wave profile is well predicted. However, the disintegrating character of the transmitted waves is weakly predicted. For breaking transformation, the wave profiles are predicted well prior to the lee of the breakwater where disintegration occurs.