Chapter
Dec 31, 2015
A Two-Dimensional Surf Zone Model Based on the Boussinesq Equations
Authors: H. A. Schäffer, R. Deigaard, and P. MadsenAuthor Affiliations
Publication: Coastal Engineering 1992
Abstract
A simple approach to wave breaking using the concept of surface rollers is introduced in a two-dimensional Boussinesq model. A surface roller represents a passive bulk of water riding on the front of a breaking wave and the vertical redistribution of momemtum associated with the formation and change of surface rollers leads to additional terms in the Boussinesq equations. A simple geometrical method is used for the determination of the shape and location of these rollers at each time step in the simulation. This automatically results in a time-varying break point position in the case of irregular waves. Furthermore, breaking may well cease for example when waves reach a trough inshore of a bar.
Comparison between one-dimensional simulations and experiments shows good agreement for the variation of wave height and mean water surface as well as surface elevation time series throughout the surf zone for both regular and irregular waves. Simulations in two horizontal dimensions are still at the initial stage. A sample simulation is shown.
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Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Coastal Engineering 1992
Pages: 576 - 589
Copyright
© 1993 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published online: Dec 31, 2015
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ASCE Technical Topics:
- Boussinesq equations
- Coastal engineering
- Coastal processes
- Coasts, oceans, ports, and waterways engineering
- Continuum mechanics
- Dynamics (solid mechanics)
- Engineering fundamentals
- Engineering mechanics
- Fluid mechanics
- Geomechanics
- Geotechnical engineering
- Hydrologic engineering
- Models (by type)
- Ocean currents
- Ocean waves
- Shores
- Soil mechanics
- Soil properties
- Soil stress
- Solid mechanics
- Surf zones
- Two-dimensional models
- Water and water resources
- Water waves
- Wave equations
- Waves (fluid mechanics)
- Waves (mechanics)
Authors
Affiliations
H. A. Schäffer
Danish Hydraulic Institute, Agern Allé 5, 2970 Hørsholm, Denmark
R. Deigaard
DTH, ISVA, DK-2800 Lyngby, Denmark
P. Madsen
Danish Hydraulic Institute, Agern Allé 5, 2970 Hørsholm, Denmark
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