Chapter
Dec 31, 2015
Nonlinear Transformation of Irregular Waves in Shallow Water
Authors: Per A. Madsen, Ole R. Sørensen, and Hemming A. SchäfferAuthor Affiliations
Publication: Coastal Engineering 1992
Abstract
Propagation and shoaling of irregular wave trains in shallow water is a nonlinear process, where substantial cross spectral energy transfer can take plane in relatively short distances. This process involves the generation of bound sub- and super-harmonics and near-resonant triad interactions, which are defined as the energy exchange between three interacting wave modes. It turns out, however, that the accuracy of the linear dispersion relation for higher wave numbers is of major importance for the exchange of energy even in shallow water and for this reason we recommend as governing equations a special form of the Boussinesq equations.
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Information
Published In
Coastal Engineering 1992
Pages: 460 - 473
Copyright
© 1993 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published online: Dec 31, 2015
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ASCE Technical Topics:
- Coastal engineering
- Coastal processes
- Coasts, oceans, ports, and waterways engineering
- Continuum mechanics
- Dynamics (solid mechanics)
- Engineering mechanics
- Fluid mechanics
- Hydrologic engineering
- Irregular waves
- Nonlinear waves
- Ocean currents
- Ocean waves
- Sea water
- Shallow water
- Solid mechanics
- Water (by type)
- Water and water resources
- Water management
- Water waves
- Waves (fluid mechanics)
- Waves (mechanics)
Authors
Affiliations
Per A. Madsen
Danish Hydraulic Institute, Agern Allé 5, DK-2970 Hørsholm, Denmark
Ole R. Sørensen
Danish Hydraulic Institute, Agern Allé 5, DK-2970 Hørsholm, Denmark
Hemming A. Schäffer
Danish Hydraulic Institute, Agern Allé 5, DK-2970 Hørsholm, Denmark
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