Chapter
Dec 31, 2015
Breaking Waves Propagating Over a Shoal
Authors: J. A. Battjes and S. BejiAuthor Affiliations
Publication: Coastal Engineering 1992
Abstract
Spectral evolution of breaking and nearly breaking waves propagating over a submerged trapezoidal bar has been investigated in laboratory experiments. It is found that wave breaking itself does not play a crucial role in the evolution of the spectral shape, but contributes simply by extracting energy roughly in proportion to the local spectral density. For nonbreaking waves, a Boussinesq model with improved dispersion characteristics is found to simulate the wave evolution very well. On the basis of these findings, it is suggested to combine a semi-empirical model for the overall energy dissipation with a nondissipative Boussinesq model so as to obtain a model for simulation of spectral evolution of breaking waves.
Get full access to this article
View all available purchase options and get full access to this chapter.
Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Coastal Engineering 1992
Pages: 41 - 50
Copyright
© 1993 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published online: Dec 31, 2015
Permissions
Request permissions for this article.
ASCE Technical Topics:
- Breaking waves
- Coastal engineering
- Coastal processes
- Coasts, oceans, ports, and waterways engineering
- Continuum mechanics
- Dynamics (solid mechanics)
- Engineering mechanics
- Fluid mechanics
- Hydrologic engineering
- Ocean currents
- Ocean waves
- Solid mechanics
- Water and water resources
- Water waves
- Wave propagation
- Wave shoaling
- Waves (fluid mechanics)
- Waves (mechanics)
Authors
Affiliations
J. A. Battjes
Professor, Dept. of Civil Eng., Delft University of Technology, P.O. Box 5048, 2600 GA, Delft, The Netherlands.
S. Beji
Former post-doctorate fellow at Delft University of Technology. Present employment: Naval Architecture and ocean Engineering Faculty, Istanbul Technical University, Turkey.
Metrics & Citations
Metrics
Citations
Download citation
If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.
View Options
Get Access
Access content
Please select your options to get access
Log in/Register
Log in via your institution (Shibboleth)
ASCE Members:
Please log in to see member pricing
Purchase
Save for later Item saved, go to cart Information on ASCE Library Cards
ASCE Library Cards let you download journal articles, proceedings papers, and available book chapters across the entire ASCE Library platform. ASCE Library Cards remain active for 24 months or until all downloads are used. Note: This content will be debited as one download at time of checkout.
Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
Get Access
Access content
Please select your options to get access
Log in/Register
Log in via your institution (Shibboleth)
ASCE Members:
Please log in to see member pricing
Purchase
Save for later Item saved, go to cart Information on ASCE Library Cards
ASCE Library Cards let you download journal articles, proceedings papers, and available book chapters across the entire ASCE Library platform. ASCE Library Cards remain active for 24 months or until all downloads are used. Note: This content will be debited as one download at time of checkout.
Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.