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Dec 31, 2015
Modeling of Energy Transfer and Undertow in the Surf Zone
Authors: Akio Okayasu, Akira Watanabe, and Masahiko IsobeAuthor Affiliations
Publication: Coastal Engineering 1990
Abstract
A model is presented to describe accurately the energy transfer under breaking waves. In the model, the energy of organized large vortexes as well as those of wave-induced motion and turbulence is taken into account. The model allows to estimate the dissipation rate and distribution of energy, and then the cross-shore two-dimensional distribution of an undertow. The applicability of the model is confirmed by laboratory experiments.
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© 1991 American Society of Civil Engineers.
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Published online: Dec 31, 2015
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Akio Okayasu
Research Associate, Department of Civil Engineering, Yokohama National University, Hodogaya-ku, Yokohama 240, Japan
Akira Watanabe
Professor, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Tokyo, Bunkyoku, Tokyo 113, Japan
Masahiko Isobe
Associate Professor, ditto
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