Chapter
Dec 31, 2015
Closed-Form Solutions for the Probability Density of Wave Height in the Surf Zone
Publication: Coastal Engineering 1988
Abstract
By invoking the assumption that in the surf zone, random waves behave as a collection of individual regular waves, two closed-form solutions for the probability density function of wave height on planar beaches are derived. The first uses shallow water linear theory for wave shoaling, assumes a uniform incipient condition, and prescribes breaking with a regular wave model that includes both bottom slope and wave steepness effects on the rate of decay. In the second model, the shallow water assumption is removed, and a distribution in wave period (incipient condition) is included. Preliminary results indicate that the models exhibit much of the behavior noted for random wave transformation reported in the literature, including bottom slope and wave steepness effects on the shape of the probability density function.
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Published In
Coastal Engineering 1988
Pages: 807 - 821
Copyright
© 1989 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published online: Dec 31, 2015
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William R. Dally, M.ASCE
Florida Institute of Technology, Oceanography and Ocean Engineering, 150 W. University Blvd., Melbourne, Florida 32901, U.S.A.
Robert G. Dean, M.ASCE
Coastal and Oceanographic Engineering Department, 336 Weil Hall, University of Florida, Gainesville, Florida 32611, U.S.A.
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Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
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