Chapter
Dec 31, 2015
Coupling Stokes and Cnoidal Wave Theories in a Nonlinear Refraction Model
Publication: Coastal Engineering 1988
Abstract
An efficient numerical model is presented for calculating the refraction and shoaling of finite-amplitude waves over an irregular sea bottom. The model uses third-order Stokes wave theory in relatively deep water and second-order cnoidal wave theory in relatively shallow water. It can also be run using combinations of lower-order wave theories, including a pure linear wave mode. The problem of the connection of Stokes and cnoidal theories is investigated, and it is found that the use of second-order rather than first-order cnoidal theory greatly reduces the connection discontinuity. Calculations are compared with physical model measurements of the height and direction of waves passing over an elliptical shoal. The finite-amplitude wave model gives better qualitative and quantitative agreement with the measurements than the linear model.
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Published In
Coastal Engineering 1988
Pages: 588 - 601
Copyright
© 1989 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published online: Dec 31, 2015
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Authors
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Thomas A. Hardy, A.M.ASCE
Department of Civil and Systems Engineering, James Cook University, Townsville, Queensland, Australia 4811
Nicholas C. Kraus, M.ASCE
Senior Research Scientist, Coastal Engineering Research Center, U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, P.O. Box 631, Vicksburg, MS, USA 39180-0631
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ASCE Library Cards let you download journal articles, proceedings papers, and available book chapters across the entire ASCE Library platform. ASCE Library Cards remain active for 24 months or until all downloads are used. Note: This content will be debited as one download at time of checkout.
Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.