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Dec 31, 2015
The Measured Properties of Irregular Wave Breaking and Wave Height Change after Breaking on the Slope
Authors: Akira Seyama and Akira KimuraAuthor Affiliations
Publication: Coastal Engineering 1988
Abstract
Wave height change of the zero-down-cross waves on uniform slopes were examined experimentally. The properties of shoaling, breaking and decay after breaking for a total of about 4,000 irregular waves of the Pierson-Moskowitz type on 4 different slopes (1/10, 1/20, 1/30 and 1/50) were investigated. The shoaling property of the zero-down-cross waves can be approximated by the linear wave theory. However, the properties of breaking and decay after breaking differ considerably from those for periodic waves. The wave height water depth ratio (H/d) at the breaking point for the zero-down-cross waves is about 30% smaller than that for periodic waves on average despite the slopes. Wave height decay after breaking also differs from that for periodic waves and can be classified into three regions, i.e. shoaling, plunging and bore regions. Experimental equations for the breaking condition and wave height change after breaking are proposed in the study. A new definition of water depth for the zero-crossing wave analysis which can reduce the fluctuation in the plotted data is also proposed.
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© 1989 American Society of Civil Engineers.
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Published online: Dec 31, 2015
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Akira Seyama
Prof, Tottorl Univ., Koyama, Tottori, Japan
Akira Kimura
Associate Prof. Tottorl Univ., Koyama, Tottori, Japan
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