Chapter
Dec 31, 2015
Wave Run-Up on a Natural Beach
Publication: Coastal Engineering 1988
Abstract
The swash oscillation, waves and water particle velocity in the surf zone were measured by using 16 mm memo-motion cameras and electromagnetic current meters. It was inferred that incident waves form two-dimensional standing waves with the anti-node in the swash slope. Separation of the incident waves and reflected waves was attempted with good results using small amplitude long wave theory. Reflection coefficient of individual waves ranged between 0.3 and 1.0. The joint distribution of wave heights and periods in the swash oscillation exhibited different distribution from that in and outside the surf zone. This indicates that simple application of wave to wave transformation model fails in the swash zone.
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Published In
Coastal Engineering 1988
Pages: 151 - 165
Copyright
© 1989 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published online: Dec 31, 2015
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Authors
Affiliations
Mitsuo Takezawa
Dr. Eng., Professor, Dept. of Civil Eng., College of Science and Technology, Nihon University, Kanda-surugadai 1-8-14, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo, 101 Japan
Masaru Mizuguchi
Dr. Eng., Associate Professor, Dept. of Civil Eng., School of Science and Technology, Chuo University, Kasuga 1-13-27, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo 112 Japan
Shintaro Hotta
Dr. Eng., Associate Professor, Dept.of Civil Eng., Nihon University
Susumu Kubota
Research Associate, Dept. of Civil Eng., Nihon University
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