Chapter
Dec 31, 2015
A Numerical Model for Refraction of Linear and Cnoidal Waves
Publication: Coastal Engineering 1984
Abstract
A numerical model for refraction of linear and cnoidal waves over an arbitrary bottom is presented. The model, which is based on the ray theory of refraction (11), utilizes linear theory in deep and intermediate water and cnoidal theory in shallow water. The model permits one to determine nearshore wave properties using a nonlinear wave theory. Nearshore wave properties such as wave height, celerity, and wave angle determined using the linear-cnoidal refraction model may vary considerably from those determined using a linear refraction model. In general, cnoidal waves refract less, travel faster, and shoal higher than linear waves. This result can have a considerable effect on coastal engineering design, particularly in the areas of coastal structure design and longshore transport computations.
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© 1985 American Society of Civil Engineers.
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Published online: Dec 31, 2015
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John R. Headland, A.M.ASCE
Coastal Engineer, Moffatt and Nichol Engineers, Suite 107, 3717 National Drive, Raleigh, North Carolina 27612 and Graduate Student, Department of Civil Engineering, Duke University, Durham, NC 27706.
Hsao-Ling Chu, M.ASCE
Professor of Civil Engineering, California State University, Long Beach, California 90840.
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