Chapter
Dec 31, 2015
Description of Natural Sea States Requirements to the Reproduction in models
Authors: H. Lundgren and Elias DavidsenAuthor Affiliations
Publication: Coastal Engineering 1984
Abstract
In order to attain a satisfactory reproduction in physical and numerical models of Nature’s sea states, much development of the description of these sea states has to take place. This paper gives a discussion (i) of the problems that can be considered as solved today, and (ii) of the problem areas where much research is still needed.
Firstly, the paper presents the basic definition of the directional spread of energy (for a given frequency) as derived from a field record. This definition is necessarily a statistical one and leads directly to the determination in practice of the directional spectrum.
Secondly, the parameterization of spectra is discussed and it is proposed to express one-dimensional storm spectra by means of the four parameter F.I .-spectrum, which is more manageable than the JONSWAP-spectrum.
Thirdly, it is concluded that the first order components of any spectrum have random phases.
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Published In
Coastal Engineering 1984
Pages: 501 - 515
Copyright
© 1985 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published online: Dec 31, 2015
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Authors
Affiliations
H. Lundgren
Professor, Dr.Techn., Institute of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Engineering, Technical university of Denmark, Building 115, DK-2800 Lyngby — Denmark. Consultant to Danish Hydraulic Institute.
Elias Davidsen
M.Sc, Harbour Engineer, Government Engineering Office, Faroe Islands.
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