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Dec 31, 2015
A Dynamical Expression of Waves in Shallow Water
Authors: Y. Tsuchiya, M.ASCE, and T. YasudaAuthor Affiliations
Publication: Coastal Engineering 1984
Abstract
Making the assumptions that solitons are one of the most elementary excitation in random nonlinear waves in shallow water and that the waves have a coherent dynamic structure of solitons, we attempt to describe the swell-like waves theoretically by deriving the asymptotic multisoliton solution for the KdV equation. Formulations of the random wave profiles and internal properties are also made. We conclude from the comparisons between observed and theoretical results of the propagation characteristics of the swell-like random waves and their water particle velocities, that the waves in shallow water have a coherent dynamic structure of solitons and that the theoretical expression for the waves has practically sufficient accuracy in estimating their propagation.
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© 1985 American Society of Civil Engineers.
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Published online: Dec 31, 2015
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Y. Tsuchiya, M.ASCE
Professor, Disaster Prevention Research Institute, Kyoto University, Uji 6ll, Kyoto, JAPAH
T. Yasuda
Associate Professor, Department of Civil Engineering, Gifu University, Gifu 501-11, Gifu, JAPAN
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Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.