Chapter
Dec 31, 2015
Field Studies of Run-up on Dissipative Beaches
Publication: Coastal Engineering 1984
Abstract
Field measurements of narrow-band incident wind waves and the resulting run-up were made photographically at two different natural sand beaches along San Francisco Bay. The run-up spectra derived from the field-measured time series show some energy at the incident-wave peak frequency, with the predominant run-up spectral energy concentrated in frequency bands below the incident-wave peak frequency. Observations of the swash time series recorded at both beaches indicate that the low-frequency run-up is generated on the beach face by the interaction between the run-up and backwash during the swash cycle.
Coherence analyses indicate that the offshore incident waves and run-up on the beach are not linearly correlated but that the run-up is correlated in the alongshore direction. The slopes of the log-log run-up spectra computed over the frequency band of the incident waves are all approximately -3. Statistical hypothesis tests were used to compare the empirical run-up cumulative distribution functions with both normal and Rayleigh distribution functions.
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Published In
Coastal Engineering 1984
Pages: 399 - 414
Copyright
© 1985 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published online: Dec 31, 2015
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Authors
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Christopher T. Carlson, A.M.ASCE
Oceanographer, Sohio Petroleum Co., One Lincoln Centre, 5400 LBJ Freeway, Suite 1200-LB 25, Dallas, TX 75240
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