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Dec 31, 2015
Run-up of Periodic Waves on Beaches of Non-Uniform Slope
Authors: Yoshinobu Ogawa and Nobuo ShutoAuthor Affiliations
Publication: Coastal Engineering 1984
Abstract
Run-up of periodic waves on gentle or non-uniform slopes is discussed. Breaking condition and run-up height of non-breaking waves are derived by the use of the linear long wave theory in the Lagrangian description. As to the breaking waves, the width of swash zone and the run-up height are obtained for relatively gentle slopes (less than 1/30), on dividing the transformation of waves into dissipation and swash processes. The formula obtained here agrees with experimental data better than Hunt’s formula does. The same procedure is applied to non-uniform slopes and is found to give better results than Saville’s composite slope method.
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© 1985 American Society of Civil Engineers.
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Published online: Dec 31, 2015
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Yoshinobu Ogawa
Research Associate, Dept. of Civil Eng., Tohoku University, Aoba, Sendai 980, Japan
Nobuo Shuto
Professor, Dept. of Civil Eng., Tohoku University, Aoba, Sendai 980, Japan
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