Chapter
Dec 31, 2015
Wave Power and Beach-Stages: A Global Model
Publication: Coastal Engineering 1978
Abstract
A three-dimensional morphodynamic model of sequential beach changes Is presented. The model Is based on variations in breaker wave power generating a predictable sequence of beach conditions. The spectrum of beach conditions from fully eroded-dissipatlve to fully accreted-reflective is characterised by ten beach-stages. Using the breaker wave power to beach-stage relationship the model Is applied to explain temporal, spatial and global variations In beach morphodynamlcs.
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© 1978 American Society of Civil Engineers.
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Published online: Dec 31, 2015
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Andrew D. Short
Coastal Studies Unit, Dept. of Geography University of Sydney, Sydney, N.S.W. 2006 Australia
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