Chapter
Dec 31, 2015
Wave Characteristics in the Surf Zone
Authors: I. A. Svendsen, P. Å. Madsen, and J. Buhr HansenAuthor Affiliations
Publication: Coastal Engineering 1978
Abstract
The equations describing conservation of mass, momentum and energy in a turbulent free surface flow are derived for a controle volume extending over the whole depth. The effect of the turbulent surface oscillations are discussed but neglected in the following analysis, where the equations are applied to the energy balance in a surf zone wave motion. This leads to results for the wave height variation and the velocity of propagation. The results cannot be reconciled completely with measurements and the concluding discussion is aimed at revealing how the model can be improved.
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Published In
Coastal Engineering 1978
Pages: 520 - 539
Copyright
© 1978 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published online: Dec 31, 2015
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Authors
Affiliations
I. A. Svendsen
ASSOC. Professor, Institute of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Engineering (ISVA), Technical University of Denmark, Building 115, DK-2800 Lyngby.
P. Å. Madsen
Ph.D.-student.
J. Buhr Hansen
ASSOC. Professor, Institute of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Engineering (ISVA), Technical University of Denmark, Building 115, DK-2800 Lyngby.
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