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Dec 31, 2015

Physics and Mathematics of Waves in Coastal Zones

Publication: Coastal Engineering 1976

Abstract

This paper presents a discussion of four methods available for the computation of small amplitude periodic waves in coastal zones of arbitrary topography. With no reflections (or reflection from a single structure) the methods that proceed in space (Refraction and Propagation) or time (Timestep) seem the natural ones from a physical point of view. With repeated reflections, recourse must he taken to the solution of an Elliptic “boundary value problem. – It is suggested that a P-method based on (energy) flux lines and energy fronts be developed for cases where the R-methods give crossing orthogonals.

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Go to Coastal Engineering 1976
Coastal Engineering 1976
Pages: 880 - 885

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Published online: Dec 31, 2015

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H. Lundgren
Professor of Marine Civil Engineering, Institute of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Engineering, Technical University of Denmark, DK-2800 Lyngby. Consultant, Danish Hydraulic Institute.

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