Chapter
Dec 31, 2015
Wave Spectrum of Breaking Waves
Authors: Toru Sawaragi and Koichiro IwataAuthor Affiliations
Publication: Coastal Engineering 1976
Abstract
By wave breaking, an incident monocromatic wave is transformed to a wave composed of its harmonic frequency waves inside a surf zone.
Based on a dimensional consideration, the “-1 power law ”, the “-2 power law”, the “-2/3 power law” and the “-1/2 power law” on the wave height spectrum, H(f), are derived as sorts of equilibrium spectra.
These spectra except “-l/2 power law” are shown to agree with experimental data.
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© 1977 American Society of Civil Engineers.
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Published online: Dec 31, 2015
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Toru Sawaragi
Professor of Civil Engineering Osaka University, Suita, Osaka, Japan
Koichiro Iwata
Assistant Professor of Civil Engineering Osaka University, Suita, Osaka, Japan
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