Chapter
Dec 31, 2015
Shoaling of Finite Amplitude Long Waves on a Beach of Constant Slope
Authors: Yuichi Iwagaki and Tetsuo SakaiAuthor Affiliations
Publication: Coastal Engineering 1972
Abstract
A solution of finite amplitude long waves on constant sloping beaches is obtained by solving the equations of the shallow water theory of the lowest order. Non-linearity of this theory is taken into account, using the perturbation method. Bessel functions involved in the solution are approximated with trigonometric functions. The applicable range of this theory is determined from the two limit conditions caused by the hydrostatic pressure assumption and the trigonometric function approximation of Bessel functions.
The shoaling of this finite amplitude long waves on constant sloping beaches is discussed. Especially, the effects of the beach slope on the wave height change and the asymmetric wave profile near the breaking point are examined, which can not be explained by the concept of constancy of wave energy flux based on the theory of progressive waves in uniform depth. These theoretical results are presented graphically, and compared with curves of wave shoaling based on finite amplitude wave theories.
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Published In
Coastal Engineering 1972
Pages: 347 - 364
Copyright
© 1973 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published online: Dec 31, 2015
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Authors
Affiliations
Yuichi Iwagaki
Professor
Department of Civil Engineering Kyoto University Kyoto, Japan
Tetsuo Sakai
Assistant Professor
Department of Civil Engineering Kyoto University Kyoto, Japan
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