Wave Period and the Swash Zone Energy Balance

The shape sorting of pebbles in the swash zone was studied in an effort to determine the effect of the amount of foreshore infiltration per wave on the swash zone energy balance. Measurements were made of pebbles collected from the swash limit and from the step of selected sandy beaches. The pebbles were sampled on occasions when, and at locations where, the conditions of breaker height, breaker approach angle and foreshore slope fell within predetermined limits. The wave period and the foreshore infiltration rate varied among the beaches and were measured. The results of these measurements indicate that the mean shape of swash limit pebbles, and presumably, therefore, the swash zone energy balance depends upon the amount of foreshore infiltration per wave. This finding leads to the conclusion that in the study of the dynamics of the swash zone the effect of wave period and the effect of foreshore permeability must be considered together.