Chapter
Dec 31, 2015
Nearshore Wave Dynamics Simulated by Boussinesq Type Models
Authors: Ole R. Sørensen, Per A. Madsen, and Hemming A. SchäfferAuthor Affiliations
Publication: Coastal Engineering 1998
Abstract
This paper presents a numerical study of nearshore wave dynamics including the surf zone. Two different time-domain Boussinesq type formulations are applied for this purpose. The first model incoporates Padé [2,2] dispersion characteristics and lowest order nonlinearity. The second and more sophisticated model incorporates Padé [4,4] characteristics and higher-order nonlinearity in the dispersive terms. The models are validated on the shoaling and breaking of regular and irregular waves with and without an ambient current.
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Published In
Coastal Engineering 1998
Pages: 272 - 285
Copyright
© 1999 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published online: Dec 31, 2015
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ASCE Technical Topics:
- Boussinesq equations
- Coastal engineering
- Coastal processes
- Coasts, oceans, ports, and waterways engineering
- Dynamic models
- Engineering fundamentals
- Fluid mechanics
- Geomechanics
- Geotechnical engineering
- Hydrologic engineering
- Models (by type)
- Nearshore
- Ocean currents
- Ocean waves
- Shores
- Simulation models
- Soil mechanics
- Soil properties
- Soil stress
- Water and water resources
- Water waves
- Waves (fluid mechanics)
Authors
Affiliations
Ole R. Sørensen
International Research Centre for Computational Hydrodynamics (ICCH), Danish Hydraulic Institute, Agern Allé 5, DK-2970, Hørsholm, Denmark
Per A. Madsen
International Research Centre for Computational Hydrodynamics (ICCH), Danish Hydraulic Institute, Agern Allé 5, DK-2970, Hørsholm, Denmark
Hemming A. Schäffer
International Research Centre for Computational Hydrodynamics (ICCH), Danish Hydraulic Institute, Agern Allé 5, DK-2970, Hørsholm, Denmark
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