Improved Boussinesq Model and its Application to Wave Transformations over Artificial Reef on Sloping Beach

A general form of high-order Boussinesq equations is newly derived. The dispersion characteristics are further improved by partially replacing the dispersion terms. Compared with the previous models, the linear dispersion property of the present model is significantly improved. For group velocity, the 5th and 3rd order models give excellent agreement with the theory in the range of kh < 50 and 10, respectively. In addition, a practical numerical model based on the 3rd order equations is developed. The model is applied to the study of wave deformation around an artificial reef placed on a sloping beach. Systematic computations and hydraulic experiments are carried out under severe conditions of small water depth above the reef. The comparison between experiments and numerical predictions shows that the present model can reproduce the complicated wave fields including reflection, breaking, disintegration, re-generation very well.