Chapter
Apr 26, 2012
A Weakly Nonlinear Wave Model of Practical Use
Authors: Jung Lyul Lee and Chan Sung ParkAuthor Affiliations
Publication: Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis (2001)
Abstract
A weakly nonlinear mild-slope equation has been derived directly from the continuity equation with the aid of the Galerkin's method. The equation is combined with the momentum equations defined at the mean water level. A single component model has also been obtained in terms of the surface displacement. The linearized form is completely identical with the time-dependent mild-slope equation proposed by Smith and Sprinks. For the verification purposes of the present nonlinear model, the degenerate forms are compared with Airy's non-dispersive nonlinear wave equation, classical Boussinesq equation, and second-order permanent Stokes waves. In this study, the present nonlinear wave equations are discretized by the approximate factorization techniques so that a tridiagonal matrix solver is used for each direction. Through the comparison with physical experiments, nonlinear wave model capacity was examined and the overall agreement was obtained.
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© 2002 American Society of Civil Engineers.
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Published online: Apr 26, 2012
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Jung Lyul Lee
Associate Professor, Dept. of Civil and Environmental Engr., Sungkyunkwan University, Suwon Campus, Suwon 440-746, Korea
Chan Sung Park
Assistant Researcher, Dept. of Port and Coastal Eng., Dohwa Consulting Engineers Co., Ltd., Seoul 425-600, Korea
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