Chapter
Apr 26, 2012
Transformation of Wave Spectra from Deep to Shallow Water
Authors: Michel K. Ochi [email protected] and Subarna B. Malakar [email protected]Author Affiliations
Publication: Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis (2001)
Abstract
A method for estimating the reduction of wave energy in shallow water from knowledge of wave spectra in deep water is developed through the stochastic process approach. The loss of energy associated with shoaling and breaking is evaluated along with consideration of the change in wave characteristics from Gaussian (in deep water) to a non-Gaussian (in shallow water) random process. The methodology consists of the evaluation of energy loss in three areas; shoaling zone, breaking point and surf zone. The breaking point in a random sea is defined from consideration of the probability of breaking and energy loss.
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Published In
Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis (2001)
Pages: 700 - 713
Copyright
© 2002 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published online: Apr 26, 2012
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Affiliations
Department of Civil and Coastal Engineering, University of Florida, Gainesville, Florida, 32611. E-mail: [email protected]
Department of Civil and Coastal Engineering, University of Florida, Gainesville, Florida, 32611. E-mail: [email protected]
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