Chapter
Apr 26, 2012
Nearshore Directional Wave Measurements for Regional Coastal Management
Publication: Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis (2001)
Abstract
For the determination of protection standard afforded by an existing or recharged beach extreme wave parameters may be needed. The long term behaviour of beaches and dunes, however, is more dependent on the regional wave climate, which e.g. allows to predict the overall longshore movement of beach material. The wave direction in this context is the most sensitive parameter. Up to nowadays wave hindcasting models were the most reliable source for wave directional information. Nowadays directional wave recording are a reliable tool to determine deep water wave climate and to perform investigations on a site-specific basis. Wave directional wind and water level recordings over a period of 15 years and their interrelations are used to describe a concept of setting up a long term hindcasted nearshore wave data base (50 years) in form of hourly directional wave parameter information. Besides applications of the data for the purposes of structural design and for the longterm maintenance of a coastal region are outlined.
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© 2002 American Society of Civil Engineers.
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Published online: Apr 26, 2012
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M.ASCE
Academic Director, Dr.-Ing., Department of Hydrodynamics and Coastal Engineering, Leichtweiss-Institute for Hydraulics, Technical University Braunschweig, Beethovenstr. 51a, 38106 Braunschweig, Germany,. E-mail: [email protected]
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