Chapter
Apr 26, 2012
Wave Breaking and Sediment Suspension in Surf Zones
Publication: Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis (2001)
Abstract
The time-averaged, depth-integrated suspended sediment model based on the sediment suspension and settling rates is combined with the nonlinear time-averaged irregular wave model CSHORE. In this sediment model, the suspension rate is proportional to the wave energy dissipation rate per unit volume of water. Beach profile evolution tests were conducted to calibrate CSHORE and estimate the suspension rates which were found to be much larger than the rates of the bottom elevation change. Equilibrium profile tests were also conducted to verify CSHORE for its capability in predicting the cross-shore variations of the statistics of the free surface elevation and cross-shore velocity from outside the surf zone to the inner surf zone. The sediment model combined with the calibrated CSHORE is shown to be capable at least qualitatively of predicting the cross-shore variation of the measured suspended sediment concentration above the equilibrium profile.
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© 2002 American Society of Civil Engineers.
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Published online: Apr 26, 2012
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Michael A. Giovannozzi
Civil Engr., U.S. Army Corps of Engrs., Phila. Distr., Philadelphia, PA 19107
Nobuhisa Kobayashi
Professor & Director, Ctr. for Appl. Coast. Res., Univ. of Delaware, Newark, DE 19716
Bradley D. Johnson
Hydr. Engr., U.S. Army Engrs. Res. & Dev. Ctr., Coast. Hydr. Lab., Vickburg, MS 39180-6199
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