Fluidization Model for Cross-Shore Sediment Transport by Water Waves

A new sediment transport model is proposed, which uses linear wave parameters (e.g. wave height H, and period T) to predict wave-induced net bedload transport in a given water depth h, and for given seabed properties and a given seafloor grain-size distribution. Steady-state streaming and net differential shear stress on the bed yields a shear-induced sediment transport in the direction of wave propagation (i.e. onshore). On the other hand, pressure-induced dilatation effect will force sediment transport opposite to wave propagation (i.e. offshore). The net wave-induced sediment transport is the superposition of these shear and pressure effects. It is shown that under large (winter) waves, pressure effect dominates — resulting in a net offshore transport near the shore (e.g. sediment erosion from the beach region), and under mild (summer) waves, shear effects dominate — resulting in a net onshore transport near the shore (e.g. sediment accretion into the beach region).