Chapter
Apr 26, 2012
Wave and Turbulence Characteristics in Narrow-Band Irregular Breaking Waves
Publication: Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis (2001)
Abstract
Water surface elevations and fluid velocities were measured in a laboratory surf zone created by the breaking of narrow-band waves on a 1/35 plane slope. The incident waves formed wave groups that were strongly modulated. The wave characteristics inside the surf zone were influenced by low-frequency waves. The waves with the smaller initial heights break closer to shore and have higher wave-height-to-water-depth ratios at breaking than the waves with the larger initial heights. When normalized by the period-averaged water depth, the wave height has a narrow variation in the inner surf zone. The standard deviation of the wave period increases as the water depth decreases due to the effects of long-wave motion. Turbulent kinetic energy and Reynolds stress were estimated at two different levels under the wave trough level by ensemble averaging. The distributions of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy and Reynolds stress for narrow-band and broad-band waves are different in the outer surf zone, but similar in the inner surf zone. It is suggested that the wave and turbulence characteristics in an irregular wave surf zone are determined by the breaker types, which in turn, are determined by the wave height and wave period distributions of the incident waves, and the beach slope.
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© 2002 American Society of Civil Engineers.
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Published online: Apr 26, 2012
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A.M.ASCE
Associate Professor, Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, South Dakota State University, Brookings, South Dakota 57007. E-mail: [email protected]
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Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.