Chapter
Apr 26, 2012
Implementation and Validation of a Breaker Model in a Fully Nonlinear Wave Propagation Model
Publication: Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis (2001)
Abstract
A spilling breaker model is implemented in a two-dimensional fully nonlinear coastal wave propagation model. A maximum surface slope breaking criterion is used to identify breaking waves within the incident wave train. Energy dissipation is achieved by specifying an absorbing surface pressure over breaking wave crest areas. The pressure is proportional to the normal particle velocity on the free surface. The instantaneous power dissipated in each breaking wave is specified proportional to the dissipation in a hydraulic jump of identical characteristics. Computations for a periodic wave shoaling and breaking over a plane slope are compared to laboratory experiments. The agreement is quite good, although more work remains to be done in refining the breaker model parameters.
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© 2002 American Society of Civil Engineers.
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Published online: Apr 26, 2012
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Stéphan N. Guignard
Dept. of Ocean Engng., University of Rhode Island, Narragansett, RI 02882
M.ASCE
Dept. of Ocean Engng., University of Rhode Island, Narragansett, RI 02882,. E-mail: [email protected]
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ASCE Library Cards let you download journal articles, proceedings papers, and available book chapters across the entire ASCE Library platform. ASCE Library Cards remain active for 24 months or until all downloads are used. Note: This content will be debited as one download at time of checkout.
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