The Effect of a Modulating Breakpoint on Bar-Trapped Waves
Publication: Coastal Dynamics '01
Abstract
Recent field observations of edge-waves on barred beaches show that bar-trapped modes can occur over the same frequency ranges as incident waves. Though `co-incident' edge waves must derive their energy from the incident waves, they are unlikely to be forced directly by modulations in the radiation stress gradients caused by wave groups since these cause forcing at infragravity frequencies. However, the radiation stress patterns around the breakpoint are not quite sinusoidal in space and time, so that the forcing pattern in that region has components that occur at multiples of the group frequency and wavenumber. The forcing due to these higher order harmonics is contained within the zone between the maximum and minimum breakpoint. Since the degree to which energy is transferred to edgewaves depends on how similar the cross-shore shape of the forcing is relative to that of the edgewave, transfer of energy to coincident edgewaves on barred beaches will be far more likely to occur over a wide range of frequencies than transfer to coincident edgewaves on plane beaches. Forcing conditions caused by incident wave group patterns are derived using a semi-numerical approach to demonstrate that co-incident edgewaves require a modulating breakpoint to occur. The degree to which the amount of forcing energy at higher order harmonics relative to that at the fundamental is shown to depend on the angle of incidence of the group at the breakpoint.
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© 2001 American Society of Civil Engineers.
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Published online: Apr 26, 2012
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