Chapter
Apr 26, 2012
Directional Wavenumber Spectra of Ocean Surface Waves
Authors: Paul A. Hwang [email protected], Ian R. Young, David W. Wang, Erick Rogers, James Kaihatu, Edward J. Walsh, William B. Krabill, and Robert N. SwiftAuthor Affiliations
Publication: Coastal Engineering 2000
Abstract
It has been accepted as a truth that under a steady wind forcing condition, the wind generated waves travel in the direction of the wind vector. Based on field measurements, the directional beamwidth is narrowest near the spectral peak, and increases toward both higher and lower frequency components. Over the last several decades, such scenario is the basis for the design of the directional distribution function of any spectral model for engineering and scientific applications. We present results from a spectral analysis of 3D topography of random surface waves generated by a quasi-steady wind field. The directional spectra display clear bimodal pattern in the wavenumber region just above the spectral peak. The generation mechanism of the bimodal directional distribution in the short wave region is identified to be nonlinear wave-wave interaction. Quantitative comparisons of measured and simulated directional distribution functions are in very good agreement.
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© 2001 American Society of Civil Engineers.
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Published online: Apr 26, 2012
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Affiliations
Oceanography Division, Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, MS 39529. E-mail: [email protected]
Ian R. Young
Faculty of Engineering, University of Adelaide, Adelaide, Australia 5005
David W. Wang
Oceanography Division, Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, MS 39529
Erick Rogers
Oceanography Division, Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, MS 39529
James Kaihatu
Oceanography Division, Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, MS 39529
Edward J. Walsh
NASA/GFSC/WFF, Wallops Island, VA 23337
William B. Krabill
NASA/GFSC/WFF, Wallops Island, VA 23337
Robert N. Swift
EG&G, N159, WFF, Wallops Island, VA 23337
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