Estimation of Incident and Reflected Wave Trains in Highly Nonlinear Two-Dimensional Irregular Waves
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 145, Issue 1
Abstract
Most existing methods for separation of two-dimensional (long-crested) waves into incident and reflected components are based on linear wave theory. Recently, a new method for separation of incident and reflected nonlinear regular waves was presented including separation of bound and free superharmonics. The present paper extends this method to irregular waves. Irregular waves are much more complicated to separate because bound components are caused by interaction of many different frequencies, thus, some simplifications are needed. The presented nonlinear separation method is based on narrowband approximation. Second-order wave theory is used to demonstrate that errors for more broad-banded spectra are acceptable. Moreover, for highly nonlinear waves, amplitude dispersion occurs and is included by a simplified amplitude dispersion correction factor. Both assumptions are evaluated based on numerical and physical model data. The overall conclusion is that existing reflection separation methods are reliable only for linear and mildly nonlinear nonbreaking irregular waves, whereas the present method seems reliable for the entire interval from linear to highly nonlinear nonbreaking irregular waves. The present method is shown to be an efficient and practical approximation for an unsolved theoretical problem in the analysis of waves in physical models.
Get full access to this article
View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.
Acknowledgments
Special thanks to Professor Josep R. Medina from the Laboratory of Ports and Coasts of the Universidad Politécnica de Valencia for providing the LASA V software.
References
Baldock, T. E., and D. J. Simmonds. 1999. “Separation of incident and reflected waves over sloping bathymetry.” Coastal Eng. 38 (3): 167–176. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00046-0.
Beji, S., and J. A. Battjes. 1993. “Experimental investigation of wave propagation over a bar.” Coastal Eng. 19 (1–2): 151–162. https://doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(93)90022-Z.
Fenton, J., and M. Rienecker. 1980. “Accurate numerical solutions for nonlinear waves.” In Chap. 2 of Coastal Engineering, 1980, edited by B. L. Edge, 50–69. Reston, VA: ASCE. https://doi.org/10.1061/9780872622647.002.
Figueres, M., J. M. Garrido, and J. R. Medina. 2003. “Cristalización simulada para el análisis de oleaje incidente y reflejado con un modelo de onda Stokes-V.” [In Spanish.] VII Jornadas españolas de Costas y Puertos. CD-ROM.
Figueres, M., and J. R. Medina. 2004. “Estimating incident and reflected waves using a fully nonlinear wave model.” In Vol. 4 of Coastal Engineering 2004, edited by J. M. Smith, 594–603. Singapore: World Scientific.
Goda, Y., and Y. Suzuki. 1976. “Estimation of incident and reflected waves in random wave experiments.” Chap. 48 in Coastal engineering, 1796, 828–845. Reston, VA: ASCE. https://doi.org/10.1061/9780872620834.048.
Hsiao, S., P. Lynett, H. Hwung, and P. Liu. 2005. “Numerical simulations of nonlinear short waves using a multilayer model.” J. Eng. Mech. 131 (3): 231–243. https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)0733-9399(2005)131:3(231).
Klopman, G., and J. van der Meer. 1999. “Random wave measurements in front of reflective structures.” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng. 125 (1): 39–45. https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1999)125:1(39).
Le Méhauté, B. 1969. In Vol. 2 of An introduction to hydrodynamics and water waves. Boulder, CO: Environmental Science Service Administration.
Lin, C.-Y., and C.-J. Huang. 2004. “Decomposition of incident and reflected higher harmonic waves using four wave gauges.” Coastal Eng. 51 (5–6): 395–406. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2004.04.004.
Lykke Andersen, T., M. Clavero, P. Frigaard, M. Losada, and J. I. Puyol. 2016. “A new active absorption system and its performance to linear and non-linear waves.” Coastal Eng. 114 (Aug): 47–60. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.04.010.
Lykke Andersen, T., M. R. Eldrup, and P. Frigaard. 2017. “Estimation of incident and reflected components in highly nonlinear regular waves.” Coastal Eng. 119 (Jan): 51–64. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.08.013.
Lynett, P., and P. L.-F. Liu. 2004. “A two-layer approach to wave modelling.” Proc. R. Soc. Lond., Ser. A 460 (2049): 2637–2669. https://doi.org/10.1098/rspa.2004.1305.
Mansard, E., and E. Funke. 1980. “The measurement of incident and reflected spectra using a least squares method.” Chap. 8 of Coastal engineering, 1980, edited by B. L. Edge, 154–172. Reston, VA: ASCE. https://doi.org/10.1061/9780872622647.008.
Medina, J. 2001. “Estimation of incident and reflected waves using simulated annealing.” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng. 127 (4): 213–221. https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(2001)127:4(213).
Qi, Y., G. Wu, Y. Liu, M. Kim, and D. K. P. Yue. 2018a. “Nonlinear phase-resolved reconstruction of irregular water waves.” J. Fluid Mech. 838: 544–572. https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2017.904.
Qi, Y., G. Wu, Y. Liu, and D. K. P. Yue. 2018b. “Predictable zone for phase-resolved reconstruction and forecast of irregular waves.” Wave Motion 77 (Mar): 195–213. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.wavemoti.2017.12.001.
Schäffer, H. A., and C. M. Steenberg. 2003. “Second-order wavemaker theory for multidirectional waves.” Ocean Eng. 30 (10): 1203–1231. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0029-8018(02)00100-2.
Teixeira, P. R. F., L. Pinheiro, and C. M. J. Fortes. 2010. “Comparison of three nonlinear models to analyze wave propagation over submerged trapezoidal breakwaters.” In Proc., 5th European Conf. on Computational Fluid Dynamics. Lisbon, Portugal: ECCOMAS CFD 2010.
WaveLab 3. 2017. “WaveLab.” Dept. of Civil Engineering, Aalborg Univ. Accessed September 4, 2017. http://www.hydrosoft.civil.aau.dk/wavelab/.
Zelt, J. A., and J. E. Skjelbreia. 1992. “Estimating incident and reflected wave fields using an arbitrary number of wave gauges.” Chap. 58 in Coastal Engineering, edited by B. L. Edge, 777–789. Reston, VA: ASCE. https://doi.org/10.1061/9780872629332.058.
Zhang, H., H. A. Schäffer, and K. P. Jakobsen. 2007. “Deterministic combination of numerical and physical coastal wave models.” Coastal Eng. 54 (2): 171–186. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2006.08.009.
Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Copyright
© 2018 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Received: Nov 30, 2017
Accepted: Jul 13, 2018
Published online: Nov 13, 2018
Published in print: Jan 1, 2019
Discussion open until: Apr 13, 2019
Authors
Metrics & Citations
Metrics
Citations
Download citation
If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.