TECHNICAL NOTES
Feb 14, 2003

Revisiting Wilson’s Formulas for Simplified Wind-Wave Prediction

Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 129, Issue 2

Abstract

A procedure for predicting the significant height and period of wind waves generated in a uniform fetch in deep water is presented in the closed-form expressions based on Wilson’s formulas, together with relevant design diagrams. Although Wilson’s formulas are relatively unknown in the United States, they are quite reliable. The relationship between the nondimensional minimum duration and the nondimensional fetch length is empirically expressed in a power law, which enables the analyst to judge whether the wave growth is limited by the wind duration or the fetch length. The correlation between the significant wave height and period also indicates the period approximately proportional to the 2/3 power of the wave height.

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References

Ebuchi, N., Kawamura, H., and Toba, Y.(1992). “Growth of wind waves with fetch observed by the Geostat altimeter in the Japan Sea under winter monsoon.” J. Geophys. Res., 97(C1), 809–819.
Horikawa, K. (1978). Coastal engineering: An introduction to ocean engineering, Univ. of Tokyo Press, Tokyo.
Sato, S., and Goda, Y. (1972). Coastal and harbor engineering, Giho-do Co. Ltd., Tokyo (in Japanese).
Toba, Y.(1978). “Local balance in the air-sea boundary process. I: On the growth process of wind waves.” J. Oceanogr. Soc. Jpn., 28, 109–120.
Toba, Y. (1997). “The 3/2-power law for ocean wind waves and its applications,” Advances in coastal and ocean engineering, ed., Philip L.-F. Liu, Vol. 3. World Scientific, Singapore, 31–65.
U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center. (1977). Shore protection manual, 3rd Ed., Vol. I, Sec. 3.51, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C.
Wilson, B. W.(1965). “Numerical prediction of ocean waves in the North Atlantic for December, 1959.” Deutsche Hydrographische Z., 18(3), 114–130.

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Go to Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 129Issue 2March 2003
Pages: 93 - 95

History

Received: Feb 5, 2002
Accepted: Sep 3, 2002
Published online: Feb 14, 2003
Published in print: Mar 2003

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Authors

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Yoshimi Goda, M.ASCE
Emeritus Professor, Yokohama National Univ., Advisor, ECOH Corp., 2-6-4 Kita-Ueno, Taito-Ku, Tokyo 110-0014, Japan.

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