Spectral Model for Wave Transformation and Breaking over Irregular Bathymetry
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 124, Issue 4
Abstract
A numerical model is presented that predicts the evolution of a directional spectral sea state over a varying bathymetry using superposition of results of a parabolic monochromatic wave model run for each initial frequency-direction component. The model predicts dissipation due to wave breaking using a statistical breaking model and has been tested with existing data for unidirectional random waves breaking over a plane beach. Experiments were also conducted for a series of random directional waves breaking over a circular shoal to test the model in a two-dimensional wave field. The model performs well in both cases, although directional effects are not included in the breaking dissipation formulation.
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Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 124 • Issue 4 • July 1998
Pages: 189 - 198
Copyright
Copyright © 1998 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published online: Jul 1, 1998
Published in print: Jul 1998
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