Deformation and Decay of Different Classes of Breakers
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 123, Issue 4
Abstract
Deformation and dissipation of different classes of breakers ranging from a spilling breaker to a strong plunging breaker are studied. Experiments are carried out to investigate spatial changes of the wave profile and wave height attenuation of solitary waves after breaking over a reef. Moreover, the KdV-type equation in which diffusion and bottom friction are considered is numerically solved as an inverse problem to estimate the value of the eddy diffusion coefficient κ* for different classes of breakers. The results reveal that postbreaking wave deformation, wave decay, and the transmission coefficient are closely related to the breaker type. Further, it is shown that the breaker type effect on these phenomena can be evaluated quantitatively.
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Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 123 • Issue 4 • July 1997
Pages: 200 - 207
Copyright
Copyright © 1997 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published online: Jul 1, 1997
Published in print: Jul 1997
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