Bore Height Measurement with Improved Wavestaff
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 111, Issue 3
Abstract
An improved capacitance wavestaff is described and used to measure wave height transformation in a surf zone; and the assumption is tested that wave height decays linearly across a surf zone. Acceptable frequency response in the instrument could be obtained only if sensor wires were smaller than or equal to 0.35 mm in diam. Simultaneous measurements of wave height were taken at points distributed across a surf zone during four field experiments at Virginia Beach, Virginia. Pairs of wavestaffs were repositioned along a line perpendicular to the shore line. Wave height decay across this surf zone was found to be nonlinear, and the observed pattern appears to be categorizable into three zones: (1) One in which there is a rapid decay in height due to turbulence induced by the breaking process; (2) one in which there is a nearly constant decay due to a balance between turbulence and wave shoaling affects; and (3) one in which there is a rapid decay of remaining wave energy as a wave propagates up the beach slope against the force of gravity. Energy is dissipated less rapidly by spilling breakers than plunging breakers, and, thus, spilling breakers produce greater runup at the shore line.
Get full access to this article
View all available purchase options and get full access to this article.
References
1.
Althouse, J., “Wave Measuring Instruments,” Oceanology Intl., May/June, 1968, pp. 35–37.
2.
Anderson, A. L., Shirley, D. J., and Wilkins, L. H., “An Improved Capacitive Wavestaff for Water Surface Wave Measurements,” Proceedings, IEEE, Oceans '72, 1972, pp. 483–486.
3.
Blair, C. H., “Similitude of Mass Transfer Processes in Distorted Froude Model of an Estuary,” thesis presented to Old Dominion University, at Norfolk, Va., in 1976, in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy.
4.
Brown, D. W., Scimger, J. A., and Kelly, C. E., “Ocean Wave Measurements Using a Wave Pole,” Report No. 66‐1, Pacific Naval Lab., 1966.
5.
Bub, F. L., “Surf Zone Wave Kinematics,” thesis presented to the Naval Post Graduate School, at Monterey, Calif., in 1974, in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the Master Degree.
6.
Davidson, K. L., “An Investigation of the Influence of Water Waves on Adjacent Air Flow,” Technical Report No. 08849‐2‐T, Dept. of Meteorology and Oceanography, University of Michigan, 1970.
7.
Draper, L., “The Problems of Sea Wave Recording,” Proceedings, I.E.A.E. Conference on Electrical Engineering in Oceanography, Paper No. 3, 1966.
8.
Galvin, J. J., “Kinematics of Surf Zone Breaking Waves: Measurement and Analysis,” thesis presented to the Naval Post Graduate School at Monterey, Calif., in 1975, in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the Master Degree.
9.
Gardner, R. R., “Acoustic Backscattering From a Rough Surface at Extremely Low Grazing Angles,” thesis presented to the Univ. of California, at San Diego, Calif., in 1970, in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the Doctor of Philosophy.
10.
Grace, R. A., “How to Measure Waves,” Ocean Industry, Feb., 1970, pp. 65–69.
11.
Irvine, R. G., Operational Amplifier Characteristics and Applications, Prentice‐Hall, Inc., Englewood Cliffs, N.J., 1981, pp. 341–343.
12.
Jung, W. G., Ic Op‐Amp Cookbook, 2nd Ed., Howard W. Sams and Co., Inc., Indianapolis, Ind., 1980.
13.
Killen, J. M., “Capacitive Wave Profile Recorder,” Proceedings, First Conference on Coastal Engineering Instruments, Berkeley, Calif., Chapt. 3, 1955, pp. 32–38.
14.
Kinsman, B., “Surface Waves at Short Fetches and Low Wind Speeds—A Field Study,” Technical Report No. 19, Vol. 1, Chesapeake Bay Inst., Johns Hopkins Univ., 1960.
15.
Krizek, R. J., and Mosonyi, E. F., “Description and Properties of a Capacitive Measuring System for Varying Water Levels and Water Waves,” Proceedings, International Seminar and Exposition on Water Res. Instrumentation, Vol. 1, Measuring and Sensing Methods Forum, Chicago, Ill., 1974.
16.
Lion, K. S., “Nonlinear Twin‐T Network for Capacitive Transducers,” Review of Scientific Instruments, Vol. 35, No. 3, 1964.
17.
Longuet‐Higgins, M. S., “On the Statistical Distribution of the Heights of Sea Waves,” Journal of Marine Research, Vol. 11, No. 3, 1952, pp. 245–266.
18.
McCowan, J., “On the Highest Wave of Permanent Type,” Philadelphia Magazine, Series 5, 38, 1894, pp. 351–357.
19.
McGoldrick, L. F., “A System for the Generation and Measurement of Capillary‐Gravity Waves,” Technical Report No. 3, Dept. of Geophysical Sci., University of Chicago, 1969.
20.
McGoldrick, L. F., “A Sensitive Linear Capacitance‐To‐Voltage Converter, With Applications to Surface Wave Measurements,” Review of Scientific Instruments, Vol. 42, 1971, pp. 359–361.
21.
Ribe, R. L., “Wave Sensor Technology Assessment,” National Ocean Survey Test and Evaluation Lab., Sensor Test Branch, U.S. Department of Commerce, NOAA, 1978.
22.
Ribe, R. L., and Russin, E. M., “Ocean Wave Measuring Instrumentation,” Proceedings, International Symposium on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, ASCE, 1974, pp. 396–416.
23.
Silvester, R., Coastal Engineering, Volume I, American Elsevier Publishing Co., Inc., New York, N.Y., 1974.
24.
Sturm, G. V., “Experimental Studies of Capillary Waves on Currents,” thesis presented to North Carolina State University, at Raleigh, N.C., in 1973, in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy.
25.
Timpy, D. L., “A Capacitance Wavestaff and Measurements of Wave Height Decay in the Surf Zone,” thesis presented to Old Dominion University, at Norfolk, Va., in 1982, in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the Master Degree.
26.
Tucker, M. J., and Charnock, H., “A Capacitance‐Wire Recorder for Small Waves,” Proceedings, 5th Conference on Coastal Engineering, 1954, pp. 177–187.
27.
U.S. Army Shore Protection Manual, U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center, Fort Belvoir, Va., Vols. 1–3, 2nd Ed., 1977.
28.
Wilner, L. B., “Variable Capacitance Liquid Level Sensors,” Review of Scientific Instruments, Vol. 31, No. 5, 1960, pp. 501–507.
29.
Wood, W. L., “A Wave and Current Investigation in the Nearshore Zone,” Michigan State University, Dept. of Natural Sci., 1973.
Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 111 • Issue 3 • May 1985
Pages: 495 - 510
Copyright
Copyright © 1985 ASCE.
History
Published online: May 1, 1985
Published in print: May 1985
Authors
Metrics & Citations
Metrics
Citations
Download citation
If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.