Research Article
May 1981
Breaking-Limited Wave Heights
Publication: Journal of the Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Division
Volume 107, Issue 2
Abstract
Empirical distributions of wave heights derived from field data differ from the theoretical distribution of wave heights as given by the Rayleigh law. A principal cause of this discrepancy is suggested to be that the conventional theory does not in any way account for wave breaking. Based on the assumption that the sea surface is characterized with a narrow-band spectrum, the probability distribution of wave heights limited by breaking, due to a Stokes-type limiting steepness in deep or finite water depths, is derived. The breaking-limited distribution provides a probability discription which compares with two well documented field observations more favorably than the Rayleigh law.
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Published In
Journal of the Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Division
Volume 107 • Issue 2 • May 1981
Pages: 59 - 69
Copyright
© 1981 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Published in print: May 1981
Published online: Feb 12, 2021
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Authors
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M. Aziz Tayfun, AM.ASCE
Assoc. Prof., Civ. Engrg. Dept., Coll. of Engrg. and Petroleum, Kuwait Univ., P.O. Box 5969, Kuwait
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ASCE Library Cards let you download journal articles, proceedings papers, and available book chapters across the entire ASCE Library platform. ASCE Library Cards remain active for 24 months or until all downloads are used. Note: This content will be debited as one download at time of checkout.
Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.
Terms of Use: ASCE Library Cards are for individual, personal use only. Reselling, republishing, or forwarding the materials to libraries or reading rooms is prohibited.