Wave Shoaling over a Submerged Ramp: An Experimental and Numerical Study
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 144, Issue 2
Abstract
Shoaling in intermediate and shallow waters is a major process that occurs as the water wave travels toward the shore from deep waters. Evaluation of the appropriate shoaling coefficient (Ks) is essential in understanding the nearshore energy distribution and surf-zone dynamics. The value of Ks is underestimated using linear wave theory in shallow waters. The present work focused on the investigation of the shoaling coefficient through wave-flume experiments and numerical simulations. Furthermore, comparisons were made with nonlinear theories to bring out the range of applicability of theories. A submerged ramp was used in the wave-flume experiments to mimic the shoaling process. The nonlinearity in the unshoaled and shoaled-wave profiles were brought out using skewness and kurtosis. It was found that Cokelet’s nonlinear theory agrees well with the measurements and computations. The comparative analysis of the experimental measurements with the numerical simulations suggests that the numerical model is a powerful tool to reproduce the wave-transformation process over sloping beds.
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Acknowledgments
The authors thank the Department of Ocean Engineering for the provision of the flume and experimental facilities. The authors also thank team REEF3D for their support. The support provided by fellow researchers during the experiments is greatly acknowledged.
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Information & Authors
Information
Published In
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 144 • Issue 2 • March 2018
Copyright
© 2017 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Received: Apr 21, 2017
Accepted: Sep 11, 2017
Published online: Dec 21, 2017
Published in print: Mar 1, 2018
Discussion open until: May 21, 2018
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