High-Order Boussinesq-Type Model for Integrated Nearshore Dynamics
Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 142, Issue 6
Abstract
A two-dimensional high-order Boussinesq-type model was derived to simulate wave propagation and relevant processes in the nearshore zone. Because of its enhanced nonlinear character, the model can describe more accurately the amplitude dispersion compared to its weakly nonlinear counterpart. Extension to the surf zone was accomplished using the eddy-viscosity concept for simulating breaking waves. Swash-zone dynamics were simulated by applying a modified narrow-slot technique. Bottom friction and subgrid turbulent mixing were also incorporated. The model can estimate the wave-induced current field, including the undertow effect. The numerical model relied on a generalized multistep predictor-corrector scheme, and the waves were generated using the source function method. Both the one-horizontal-dimensional (1DH) and two-horizontal-dimensional (2DH) versions were validated against a variety of experimental tests, including regular and irregular wave propagation and breaking on plane beaches and submerged shoals. Breaking and run-up of a solitary wave were also modeled. Furthermore, a wave overtopping test was also included. Oblique long-crested irregular wave incidence and a test including a rip channel were simulated to check the model's performance. The agreement, in general, is satisfactory, and most of the nearshore phenomena were accurately reproduced.
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Acknowledgments
The authors thank Rolf Deigaard for inspiring discussions, comments, and suggestions concerning this work. The first author (G. K.) gratefully acknowledges the scholarship provided by the Onassis Foundation and the support by the Danish Council for Strategic Research (DSF) under the project Danish Coasts and Climate Adaptation—Flooding Risk and Coastal Protection (COADAPT), Project No. 09-066869. He also thanks O. R. Sørensen, Th. V. Karambas, and P.A. Madsen for their useful comments and suggestions. The authors also thank S. Beji, L. Hamm, and V. Roeber for kindly providing relevant full sets of experimental data from Delft University, the rip channel, and the fringing reef, respectively.
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Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 142 • Issue 6 • November 2016
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© 2016 American Society of Civil Engineers.
History
Received: Nov 2, 2015
Accepted: Apr 19, 2016
Published online: Jun 17, 2016
Published in print: Nov 1, 2016
Discussion open until: Nov 17, 2016
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